The fashion industry has come under increasing scrutiny for its environmental impact, making sustainable clothing a priority for conscious consumers and creators. Although you might not wear a costume every day, the same challenges apply to us costume designers and makers. From fabric choices to practices like upcycling and mending, every step in the life of a garment presents opportunities to reduce waste and minimize harm to the planet.

Choosing Sustainable Fabrics: Natural vs. Synthetic

When selecting sustainable fabrics, understanding the environmental impact of each material is key. Natural fibres like linen, cotton, silk, and wool often have smaller footprints than synthetics, though each has pros and cons.

• Linen is highly sustainable, made from flax plants that require minimal water and pesticides. It’s durable, breathable, and biodegradable, though it can be more expensive to produce.
• Cotton, while natural and versatile, is a water-intensive crop that often relies on heavy pesticide use unless grown organically.
• Silk, a luxurious and biodegradable fiber, has ethical concerns around traditional production, which involves killing silkworms. Alternatives like peace silk provide cruelty-free options.
• Wool, derived from sheep, is renewable, biodegradable, and highly insulating. However, it has its own challenges, such as the ethical treatment of animals and the environmental impact of sheep farming, which can contribute to greenhouse gas emissions. Choosing responsibly sourced or recycled wool helps mitigate these concerns.

Synthetic fibres like polyester dominate the market due to cost and durability and the way they can be dyed colourfast more easily, but they are derived from petroleum, a non-renewable resource, and shed microplastics during washing.

By contrast, Tencel, a semi-synthetic fibre made from sustainably sourced wood pulp, offers a lower-impact alternative. It’s breathable, soft, and biodegradable, though slightly more expensive than polyester. Personally, I can’t wait for the day that all polyesters and satins have been replaced by Tencel weaves.

Balancing Aesthetics and Sustainability in Costuming

In costume design, the need to convey character through visual storytelling can pose challenges for sustainability, particularly when shiny or stretchy materials like brocade, organza, lycra, or satin are required or you want to create a texture with sequins, tulle or faux fur. These textiles often rely on synthetic fibres to achieve their distinctive sheen, elasticity, or drape, making it harder to align with eco-friendly principles. While natural alternatives like silk or blends with Tencel may provide some options, they may not always replicate the desired effect. Designers aiming for sustainability can prioritize thrifted or repurposed materials, use deadstock, experiment with more sustainable synthetics, or use such fabrics sparingly, integrating them into garments in ways that minimize waste. The balance between character-driven creativity and environmental responsibility requires thoughtful planning and compromises.

Extending the Life of Clothing

Sustainability doesn’t end with the fabric choice; it’s about how we care for, reuse, and repurpose clothing. Passing garments on through donation or swapping extends their usefulness and reduces waste. I am only too happy for you to pass one of my costumes on to the next generation or a friend.

Additionally, upcycling old clothes into new items—turning a dress into a tote bag, for example—offers a creative way to breathe new life into materials. Simple repairs like patching holes or reinforcing seams also keep clothes out of landfills while preserving sentimental value.

Clever design of costumes

For us designing costumes, flexibility and adaptability are vital. Costumes can be created with adjustable features, such as drawstrings or elastic panels or upturned cuffs. Little tricks when making the pattern can allow a fit for multiple performers. For growing kids, expandable designs—like dresses with extra pleats or pants with adjustable waists—accommodate changing sizes and reduce the need for constant replacements.

Equally, using patterns and styles that are timeless or neutral also ensures longevity across seasons and styles. One day a pirate, next day a prince. Peter Pan yesterday, Christmas elf tomorrow.

The Importance of Thoughtful Production Processes

How clothes are made is just as critical as the materials used. Adopting practices like small-batch, on-demand production can significantly reduce overproduction and waste, ensuring that only as many garments as needed are created. Efficient pattern layout, where pieces are carefully arranged on fabric before cutting, minimizes leftover material. Even the smallest scraps can be utilized for other projects, such as patchwork, quilting, or creating accessories like headbands or pockets. By prioritizing these thoughtful steps, manufacturers and artisan tailors / seamstresses alike can reduce fabric waste and make the most of their materials, contributing to a more sustainable lifecycle for each garment. Having said that: this is way of making things that has long been part of the artisan practice in the first place and you will rarely see an artisan wasting anything in her/ his workshop.

A Holistic Approach to Sustainable Fashion

Embracing sustainability in clothing goes beyond fabric and function. It involves a shift in mindset toward valuing quality over quantity, caring for what we own, and innovating in design to maximize wearability and minimize waste. By making thoughtful choices, we can transform fashion into a force for good—one that respects both people and the planet.