From sketch to costume

From sketch to costume – making a bespoke costume

When I make a bespoke costume, I work alongside a client’s wishes from sketch all the way to the finished costume. Sometimes a client comes to me with a very specific idea, sometimes there is just a theme for a birthday party or event on their mind. Whichever it is, I will usually exchange a few emails, listen to comments, make suggestions on fabrics to use, which textures might work, what effect a colour could have on the look or how to fit certain ideas into a budget.

Then I’ll make a sketch and put it together with a mood board to show fabric choices, buttons, closures, or accessories suitable for the outfit. I go as far as sourcing vintage glasses or costume jewellery if a client requires that.

Once all details have been decided, I starts making patterns. Basic blocks for all kids sizes are in place, but each fabric has their own ease and drape and bespoke costumes often require extra patterns for frills, ruffles, collars or lapels. Sometimes, I will make a toile to see how pattern pieces drape or fit together. This is especially important since a fitting isn’t always possible with a client living far from the studio.

Cutting the actual fabric is when the exciting part starts. Some fabrics are very precious and require backing. Some fabrics get treated or coloured before cutting, but when the scissors come out, things are starting to take shape.

Sewing pattern pieces together and fitting a zipper is not usually how things end for a costume. Trims, rhinestones, embellishments of all kinds tend to be part of what makes the character of a bespoke item.

Below are a few pictures from a Monarch butterfly costume I made in 2022. I started with some sketches and a lot of thought went into how large a structure I could built without burdening the child wearing it, but also how the wings would keep movment and how the whole costume could be packaged and shipped. The fabric was then custom printed with the wing pattern and enhanced with copper metallic foil ironed on. The aluminium structure was hidden in a waistcoat made from black velvet and the wings – once sewn – can slide on and off. A little headband with antennae completed the look. I heard the little girl was quite happy about it. 😉

So, whether you want to be Pikachu, Sheherazade, a woodland prince, Queen Elizabeth I or Cruella, I am here to make any of your kids’ costume dreams come true.


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